We began the day with a short drive to Trogir. The sun scorched us but we were cooled by the ever present sea breeze making things a tad more manageable.
Upon entering Trogir we were hit with full-blown European driving in heavy traffic. Trogir is a UNESCO world heritage site and it’s easy to see why. A tiny island squashed between the mainland and a much larger island. I say squashed as there is only two 30 foot channels of sea either side of it with a drawbridge over each. Ancient streets and modern traffic lead to a big old gridlock. After fighting our way through we walked down to the ancient walled city in the centre of the little island.
Market stalls selling figs, olive oil, tuna and Converse shoes lined the harbour where super yachts and sailing boats bobbed gently in the Marina’s shelter. We walked through the narrow ancient streets where the place teemed with activity. The cobble stones were highly polished from the many footsteps that had trodden on the stones since medieval times. We squeezed past locals selling ice-cream whilst simultaneously dodging others on mopeds which had barrels of beer and gas canisters loaded on them. They beeped their horns and forced there way through the crowds. It truly felt like we were in the heart of Croatia’s history. The main square was lined with ancient forums, where legal documents were once signed, historic churches and cafes. Dominating the entire square was the Cathedrals tower, overlooking all.
We squeezed up a tiny spiral staircase, shoulders brushing the sides of the wall it was so tight. Following that was a haphazard scramble up the narrow stone steps set into the side of the bell tower. Whilst the climb was steep, narrow and mostly terrifying the view from the top was amazing.
Below us was the small town of Trogir crammed onto its island with rows of tightly packed terracotta roofs sprawling right to the edges of its fortified walls like a beautiful architectural mosaic.
We stayed, soaking up the views and enjoying the cool shade in respite from the sun before descending from the bell tower. After popping out of the bottom of the tiny spiral staircase again I glanced a pair of American ‘elephants’ eyeing up the warning signs for the staircase. I highly doubt they’d make it through the gap, never mind up the stairs.
After strolling the streets some more and sitting at the edge of the Marina, legs dangling with feet just hovering above the sea, we squeezed back through the total inadequately sized streets built in a time before cars were ‘a thing’ and made our way home.
I left Trogir with an admiration of the place. It felt old and honest to its roots. A genuine time-portal with a peek into times gone by.
The rest of the day was spent on our private beach, looking out to sea, watching boats plod along for ridiculous amounts of time. Watching fish dancing on top of the waves and observing the sun make its long, slow journey across the sky.